2009. Blimey, that’s almost 8 years ago, now! Doesn’t seem that long! So here’s a couple of extracts from my journal, plus apologies for only taking a few photos.
Friday 27th November 2009
(I’d not been well, and couldn’t face a 12 hour bus journey, so I took a flight to Dharamsala) It all goes smoothly, and we get away just about on time. The plane is a twin engine prop; lovely, and the flight is marvellous. We are crossing the North Indian plains for a while, then all of a sudden the Himalaya jag up like freshly whitened teeth, from side to side across the horizon. We slowly approach, the ground beginning to rise up into hills and the towns disappearing. We pass Shimla atop a ridge, with its airport running along a second ridge, looking for all the world as though the top has been sliced off – and perhaps it has.
Eventually we come into land – another tiny airport where the aircraft taxis up to the small building, switches off, and then when we get out all is quiet, the mountains staring down at us and the air clear and cool. Pick up baggage, out to get a taxi to McLeod Ganj (or Gunj).
At first, the roadsides are crowded with troops of monkeys – I quickly lose all idea of how many. We pass hundreds. But as we gain height, they disappear and we are surrounded by forest.
In about half an hour, we get to McLeod Ganj and I check into my room at Hotel Ladies Venture. It is basic, but is clean, has hot water, a bed with lots of blankets, a table and a chair. For RS 200/- a night I’m in no position to complain.
So the first thing that I do is go off to explore. I am surrounded by a busy little town full, largely, of Tibetans. Lots of shops and cafes, monks, monasteries, gompas and chortens. No hard sell. In my mind, I turn cartwheels. At the moment I am sitting up on the terrace at Village Meeting Point café, finishing apple pie and Darjeeling tea, watching the sunset amongst the mountains.
This is better.
Later, it gets colder.
Saturday 28th November 2009
I slept pretty well – it didn’t get as cold as I thought that it might. The shower was good, although the hot water didn’t last for too long. This morning I have wandered up through the town to Green Hotel for breakfast. Probably like most places here, it is filled mainly with westerners, discussing Tibetan politics. Most of the more upmarket places, that is. The Tibetans will be in the cheap eateries, since most are not exactly well off.
There is a large ex-pat community of all sorts here, and one of the consequences of this is that such things as real coffee are served all over the place. Also Italian food, etc., etc. It is certainly no hardship for westerners, here. Everywhere offers yoga classes, meditation classes, massage, cookery lessons – you name it. Opportunities of all sorts for volunteering, too.
Today I am just going to wander around and get to know the place a bit. Try to feel the pulse of it, as it were. Like other, similar, places (Bodhgaya) it seems like several separate communities living side by side, interacting occasionally, but still separate. Or should that be different layers?
A sudden commotion beside me, as a monkey nips in through the window and nicks a bowl of porridge off of an adjacent table, making its escape out of the same window. No one seems too bothered.
After breakfast, I change some money and then stroll the kilometre or so uphill to Dharamkot village. The track goes through forest and I pass first through a troop of Macaque monkeys, who chunter a bit at me, but keep out of my way, and then pass lots of birdlife, including a small flock of birds that look a little like tits, with a mainly black head with a small black crest, and one beautiful bird, a little larger, an iridescent turquoise (mainly) like a kingfisher or a roller.
Teashop, this way!
At the top of the hill is a little teashop where I get a lemon tea and join the other few people sitting there in silence. It is perfectly peaceful, a good place to watch the world go by, except that the world decides not to pass that way for the moment.
Back into McLeod Ganj, past the chuntering macaques, to Jimmy’s Italian restaurant for lunch. The rooftop has fantastic views over the town and across the mountains, and I watch a couple of kites slowly circling and calling nearby. If it wasn’t for the fact that I want to explore this fascinating place, I think that I could just sit here for the whole afternoon with a book.
In the event, I don’t do anything much more constructive than that. I read, I wander around; I go for tea and cake. After all, I’m here for ten days or so, so there is no rush to do anything.
I plan to walk to Dal Lake tomorrow, which is no more than half a day there and back.
Over the last few years, Mcleodganj has become a very popular tourist hill station. One that experiences traffic jams quite often, hotels fill up during the weekend and long weekends. Triund has become must do trek for every youngster heading to Mcleod!
Even then the multicultural hill station has a charm of it’s own!
Lovely write up, Mick! I hope the pages from your diary will keep rolling 🙂
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Thanks, Arv. Trouble is, I’ll be down to the even more poorly written ones, soon.
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🙂
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Sounds like the sort of place I’d like to go, were I to go to India.
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Reckon you’d enjoy it, Dave.
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Sounds like a wonderful break! I’ve never understood people who hurry themselves on vacation. My mother loves a schedule, whereas I am horrified with the notion of a vacation schedule. I, like you, would be in no hurry. Must be personality.
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Yes, some people seem in a hurry to see and do as much as possible, whereas others just want to become part of where they are.
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McLeod Ganj has indeed become one of the most popular tourist spots in the past few ears. Wonderful narration, Mick… waiting for the next part. Wish there were more pictures… 🙂
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Unfortunately, since I was feeling fairly rotten still, for most of my time there, I didn’t take very many. I’ll put a few up, though.
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I do like McLeodganj
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Yes, I’d like the chance to visit again and see it properly.
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Ditto!
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I just love this. I really do. Its a fascinating Travelogue and I so enjoyed reading this. What a wonderful adventure. I loved the way you wandered around the town and up through the forest. The idea of walking to the Lake. Presumably you never felt unsafe or threatened? How long were you in India ( region) on this trip. It seems like you have been there a lot. Without sounding patronising, I have really learned a lot from these Blogs of yours and enjoyed all of them. More, more, more!
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Thanks, Jackie. No, not threatened at all. Especially at McLeod Ganj, which is another very laid back place. This was a 3 week trip and as well as McLeod Ganj I was in Delhi a while and a few days in Jaipur. Unfortunately, as I mentioned at the beginning, I wasn’t too well that trip (touch wood, the only one so far) which restricted me a little. More coming soon!
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I’m impressed the monkey thief was so health-conscious, Mike. If I’d been the monkey, I’d have stolen a plateful of doughnuts (or whatever the local equivalent is).
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You’d have been hard pressed to find them at breakfast time in that restaurant, Bun. It was that or muesli or possibly something on toast. I suspect it was just the bowl nearest the window, however.
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Ah well, I hope he at least enjoyed his meal.
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Never seen again!
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Apologies for the typo… This is what I meant to write… Been to McLeodganj three years ago, the memories are still fresh. Particularly driving to Naddi and enjoying the sunset.
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I hope they are all good memories! I didn’t get quite as far as Naddi, walking to Dal Lake, one day, but returning to McLeod Ganj from there. Thanks for commenting.
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