Just feel like putting this picture up here.
…but not literally, unfortunately. I did say I would re-post another travel post from some while back, so here it is.
Four years ago I wrote four short posts about Tengboche. Here I’ve combined them into a single post and added some extra pictures and text to give a little more information about this lovely place.
Tengboche is a monastery complex and a couple of trekking lodges at 3860m on the route up to Everest Base Camp from Lukla, in Nepal. It sits high above the waters of the Dudh Khosi, the rapidly flowing river than runs alongside much of the Everest Trail.
The monastery complex. On arrival in the afternoon, the clouds are low. This seems to be the pattern most days – clear mornings and then the clouds coming in early afternoon. In a general sense, weather patterns in the Himalaya – certainly in some parts, and probably at certain times of the year – can be quite predictable. When I trekked the Annapurna Circuit, for example, we were told one evening that around ten o’clock the next morning there would be strong winds blowing in the valley we were to follow, because that was what happened every day. And blow they did. At ten o’clock.
From inside the monastery grounds. The monastery is a Tibetan Buddhist complex, liberally decorated with the pictures, statues, and symbols to be found in every such place.
Inside Tengboche monastery following a puja (ceremony).
Rightly or wrongly, I don’t like taking photographs of pujas in monasteries. It feels intrusive and bad mannered. I would feel the same in a church, mosque or temple. This has nothing to do with any beliefs of my own, but is born of simple respect.
I noted in my diary: We have just sat in on a chanting puja, but my meditation failed dismally. I was completely unable to concentrate on my breath as all that I could think of were my freezing feet!
It was blooming cold!
This view must have been photographed so many times, but how fantastic is it? Sunset on Everest (left) and Nuptse (right), photographed from Tengboche. This was taken on my third visit; the other two times the clouds failed to clear in the evening, so this was an unexpected treat.
And this is the same view in the morning – but with the addition of Ama Dablam on the right of the picture. Ama Dablam is possibly my favourite mountain; the classic ‘mountain-shaped’ mountain, similar to the Matterhorn.
Close-up of window showing the dawn chorus orchestra.
We were awoken in the mornings by the harsh notes of conch shells and the clashing of symbols. This was part of the morning puja, rather than a summons for coffee and porridge. It does make for an excellent alarm call, though.
Part Four – from 30 years ago.
On the western side of Thorung La, the climate is much drier and in places the scenery is very much that of a desert landscape.
As you descend, though, you soon come across settled areas where meltwater from the snows and glaciers higher up enable vegetation to grow.
Mani stones plus a fine set of argali horns on top of a wall in Kagbeni. The argali are the wild sheep of the Himalaya.
In Tukuche, at 2590m – less than half the altitude of Thorung la, which we had crossed just two days before.
It was in places like this, that we really felt we could be in another century. Buildings of stone and beautifully carved wood, ponies for transport, no wheeled vehicles, and the two fellows to the right of the picture are busy crushing lengths of bamboo to a fibrous pulp, ready to make into paper.
It was in places like these, actually, that I felt I could just leave the world behind and spend the rest of my life. Yes, totally impractical, I know, but…
We came for the high peaks, but the mountains lower down have a breathtaking beauty of their own.
Sunrise on Poon Hill is a treat most trekkers ensure they don’t miss. Unrivalled mountain views, and in the spring the massed flowers of the rhododendron forests.
Ah, yes. Did I just mention the rhododendron forests?
Photos just don’t seem to do them justice.
And then a few days later it was over, and we were back in Kathmandu…
…and that is a different kind of wonderful…
At Manang, we pitched our tents on the flat roofs of the buildings…
…essentially, it is the only flat area in the village that doesn’t either have someone living on it or crops growing on it.
A Buddhist temple in Manang. We took care to visit the priest and receive his blessing for the crossing of the pass in a few days time. The high pass- Thorung La – is at 5416m and is the highest pass in the world, and who knows what the weather and fate might decide to throw at us.
A view of Annapurna I (I think!) from Manang. Annapurna I is the tenth highest mountain in the world, but also one of the most dangerous. The reason for my uncertainty is that the route of the trek takes us around some twenty or so peaks, including Annapurnas I – IV, Gangapurna, Tara Kang and Khangsar Kang, all of which can be seen from the Manang part of the trail.
Nomadic herders’ camp above Ledar, at about 4300m. Theirs is not an easy life.
Bridge across the Khone Khola, near where we camped before crossing the pass. The bridge is covered to protect it from snowfall.
The porters at Thorung Phedi, where we camped before crossing the pass.
A couple of hours later…
We were snowed in the next day (and you can get very bored stuck in a tent for a day), but the following day we set off at dawn to cross the pass (Note the small figures passing the first rock).
Some of the rocky, icy, snowy, lumpy bits beside us as we crossed the pass.
After several hours hard slog through the snow, and the pass crossed, we began descending the western side down towards the village of Muktinath.
We followed the Marsayandi River for most of the first half of the trek, from the second or third day until we left it at Manang to head for the high pass – Thorung La. More about that next time, though. Not much chat on this post, I’ll let the photos do the talking.
On a technical note, I have slightly boosted the yellows on some of these photographs, as this is the main colour that age seems to have leeched out. Unfortunately I can’t do much about those photos that are slightly out of focus (I blame my poor eyesight) or the scratches and other blemishes that show up here and there. It was quite difficult to keep dust and grit out of the camera, and back in those days we used, well, you know, film. Film doesn’t like dust and grit, especially when you wind it on.
We passed a school…
And a pony train returning empty from the mountains to pick up more goods…
After leaving Bahundanda…
…we began passing high waterfalls. This one was just outside Sattale.
In Sattale, where we camped on our sixth night.
In Chame, we passed this beautifully carved mani stone. Chame sits at an altitude of 2670 metres, and the following day we were climbing steeply up to Pisang, at 3300 metres, and now we began to see the Big Stuff (this is a technical term, of course).
The Big Stuff, although there was plenty more Much Bigger Stuff to come.
And at Pisang we spent Night Nine of the trek.
Carved and painted window in a house at Pisang.
Large Prayer Wheel at Pisang.
In 1988 – thirty years ago! – I walked the Annapurna Circuit. This has long been regarded as one of the top ten walks in the world, and is certainly the walk I have enjoyed most. I put up a post about the circuit a year and a half ago (here) should you wish to read it, but as a celebration of that anniversary, I thought I would put up some more photographs over several posts.
Today, they are all from our second day’s walk.
We camped the whole way, since there was virtually no accommodation on the route then. It was sometimes possible to sleep on the floor of a tea-house, but that usually meant an uncomfortable night in a very smoky atmosphere, and probably not a great deal warmer than a tent. It meant we were travelling with four guides, a couple of cooks, a couple of ‘kitchen boys’, and an average of fifteen to twenty porters (every so often one or two would leave, and others get hired from a village we were passing through).
We began our walk from Gorkha, walking through the Terai – the sub-tropical forest region that stretches across most of Southern Nepal and much of the Himalayan Foothills of Northern India. This was a land of small rural villages, terraced fields carved painstakingly out of the hillsides, and, naturally, wooded hillsides.
Much of the woodland had already gone, cut both as clearance for fields and for fuel and fodder. It was already leading to much soil erosion and the degradation of the remaining soils. With the passage of thirty years, this can only have got worse.
On day 2 we walked from our campsite beside the Dharandi Khola to the settlement of Chepe Ghat.
Transport in these areas was entirely by foot, usually in the form of porters who carried massive loads upon their backs. Occasionally by pony, or by bullock, but never by yak – they do not survive at these comparatively low altitudes. In 1988, walking the Annapurna Circuit was entirely on tracks and paths, since there were no roads of any description on our route. Today, there are motorable roads along part of it, but back then we did not see or hear a motorised vehicle for the duration of the trek.
Building materials in these areas were, and predominantly still are, wood, thatch, and mud. Stone was used only in larger settlements.
The boy pictured above, incidentally, will now be in his late thirties.
Wooded hillsides, with the terraced fields belonging to a nearby village encroaching.
Rice paddy – terraced fields flooded for the planting of rice, the staple crop of the Nepal Lowlands.
Prayer flags are found wherever Tibetan Buddhism is found. As they flutter in the breeze, they use this wind to send blessings out into the world. Through many parts of the Himalaya they adorn monasteries and humble homes, chortens and bamboo flagpoles. They are tied in their hundreds and thousands to bridges, above mountain peaks, and in the courtyards of every conceivable building.
Elsewhere, they are to be found wherever exiled Tibetans live, and wherever their school of Buddhism flourishes.
The makers of the flags intend the prayers and blessings that adorn them not for their own benefit, but for the benefit of all beings.
Prayer flags in the Yumtang Valley, Sikkim, India.
Prayer flags, Observatory Hill, Darjeeling, India.
Prayer flags outside a monastery in Sikkim, India.
Prayer flags adorn a pair of chortens and walls of prayer wheels in Khumjung, Nepal.
Prayer flags at Tengboche, Nepal.
And adorning a bridge of the Dudh Khosi, again in Nepal.
Commonly, late in the afternoon mists form and the temperature plummets. But even in the enveloping grey, Tengboche is colourful and beautiful.
To compare with the photo in the previous post, this is the same view in the morning – but with the addition of Ama Dablam on the right of the picture. This is possibly my favourite mountain; the classic ‘mountain-shaped’ mountain, similar to the Matterhorn.
This view must have been photographed so many times, but how fantastic is it?
Sunset on Everest (left) and Nuptse (right), photographed from Tengboche.